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By Faansie Peacock

Tswaing Crater

Background: Tswaing has been extensively researched and developed by the National Cultural History Musuem, and information in the form of booklets and brochures is available.

The Twsaing or Soutpan Crater and Museum are fascinating geographical and ecological sites to visit. The 220 000 year old meteoric crater is the main attraction, but the variety of habitats are home to an amazing diversity of bird species, and this has resulted in Tswaing becoming one of the most popular birding venues near Pretoria. Because the reserve is visited often, a checklist of over 320 species of birds has been compiled.

The crater itself forms an interesting centre-piece to the flat surrounding area. There are basically three major habitats at Soutpan. The first is the broken, mixed woodland near the crater and in the western section of the reserve. The best broadleaved woodland is to be found around the offices. There are some extremely dense thickets of Sickle-bush, Dichrostachys cinerea, to be found in this habitat. Further east one eventually stumbles onto the banks of the Soutpan spruit. Along the banks of the river and the surrounding floodplain, are some of the best thornveld thickets anywhere near Gauteng. The area is totally overgrown with Acacia tortilis, and Gymnosporia thickets with grass and weeds growing through the mid-startum of the shrubs and smaller trees in some places. The third important habitat is the open water provided by the river and dam and the marshland area for aquatic species.

Birding: Soutpan is well-known for its raptors, and these include a breeding pair of African Hawk Eagles, Wahlberg's Eagle (summer), melanistic Gabar Goshawks and Little Sparrowhawks, with unconfirmed sightings of Bat Hawk reported in the early morning. Of the nocturnal raptors, Pearlspotted and Barn Owls are quite common, the later mostly roosting in the dense bush by day. Whitefaced Owl is present in the tall, well-developed thornveld along the river, especially in the South-west.

Starting around the offices and museum, one can expect to find Southern Black Tit, Redbilled Hornbill, Groundscraper Thrush (in the kraals), Whitebrowed Robin and Crested Francolin. From here walk past the crater in the direction of the river. Look for Black Swifts in the sky above.

The dense thickets of Sickle-bush on the slopes and at the base of the crater, hosts relatively few species, but Crimsonbreasted Shrike and Whitethroated Robin are often present. The crater itself has Greater Honeyguide in the broken woodland and Egyptian Goose and Blackwinged Stilt are usually present far below at the disused salt works. An open water tank set along the left of the road in the thickets usually has an assortment of seed-eaters, and this is a good place to rest in the shade and wait for birds in the heat of the day. Cape Penduline Tit, Blackcheeked, Blue, Common and Violeteared Waxbills, Melba Finch, Redbilled and Jameson's Firefinches and Yelloweyed Canary should be looked out for.

At the crater view site turn left and then just after the big Marula tree, right again. You will now enter a much richer birding habitat on the banks of the river. This Acacia-dominated woodland is where a number of very localised and somewhat uncommon species, have been recorded. Some examples of these are Terrestrial Bulbul and European Nightjar, Garden Warbler, Great Reed, Icterine, Olivetree and European Marsh Warblers and Whitethroat (all in summer).

Walking upstream or downstream (towards the marsh), you will encounter a lot more birds if you take it slowly and quietly, concentrating on sounds rather than sight in the dense thickets. Learning the calls of the birds you are looking for, and especially the Warblers, will definitely increase your sightings. Barn and Whitefaced Owls and European Nightjar are often flushed from the trees. The latter usually shows two pale patches at the base of the wings as well as a generally paler, sandy colour. Its large size and habit of roosting lenthwise along horizontal branches is also characteristic.

Bird parties usually have Black Cuckooshrike, Cape Penduline Tit, Arrowmarked Babbler, Willow Warbler, Burntnecked Eremomela, Greybacked Bleating Warbler, Longbilled Crombec and Rattling Cisticola. Others that are present are Redbacked Shrike, Striped Cuckoo and Spotted Flycatcher.

The river supports African Black Duck, Greenbacked Heron and Black Crake with the occasional Dwarf Bittern in very wet years. The marshy area hosts African Rail, Redchested Flufftail, Purple Heron, African Marsh, Cape Reed and African Sedge Warblers, and where the grassland meets the reeds, Burchell's Coucal. Harlequin Quail has alsoe been recorded here.

Directions: The reserve is within easy reach of Pretoria via several alternative routes. Coming from the south on the N1 take the Zambezi-offramp and turn left at the crossroads. Continue pass the shopping centres until the road splits. Turn right (north) and continue. Turn left over the Apies river to Onderstepoort and then right. Bon Accord dam should be one your right hand side and Onderstepoort on your left. Follow this road and the Tswaing / Soutpan signs. The reserve is very easy to miss, and one should look for the Soutpan Trading Store. The entrance road to the reserve is just in front of this, and after 2,4 km on the dirt, the museum and visitor's centre, where one can park one's vehicle, is on the left. Alternatively the reserve can be reached by taking the Pyramid-offramp and going on to the Old Warmbaths road (R101) until the Bultfontein turnoff is reached. Turn in here and at the T-junction turn right and continue as for first route.

Access: The reserve is open throughout the year from 7:30 to 15:00. The gates close at 18:00. A small entrance fee is payable, and you should insist on an official receipt. An earlier access time can be arranged beforehand.

Facilities: Apart from the wide variety of guided tours, there are also a number of well-laid out, informative trails around the crater, braai-areas, toilets, parking, camping fascilities and firewood.

Faansie Peacock 1999